How to repair a string instrument

There are many problems that string instruments can experience. If you own one, you should know what these problems are and how you should handle them. Some are easily fixed at home, while others require a trip to the repairman's.

Broken hair on the bow: If only one or two hairs have broken, simply pull or cut them off. This happens from time to time because the hair gets stressed out from playing, being put in the case incorrectly, or being pulled on. If hair is falling out more regularly, though, and is getting noticeably thinner, take the bow to a repairman and have it rehaired.

Broken string: Remove the bottom half of the string; nothing holds it in place but tension. Then, find the peg that the string is attached to and turn it until the string is unwound. Then remove it and throw it away. To replace the string, push the top end (the braided end without any metal) through the small hole in the correct peg. Then, begin to wind it carefully, making sure the winding is neat (it should NOT cross over itself or be haphazard). Once it has been wound a few times, insert the bottom on the string into the small hole in the tail piece. Hold it there and continue winding until the tension is enough that it will stay. Make sure it is lined up in the groove on the bridge. Tighten until it is in tune. If you are uncertain on how to do this, take it to a music shop and ask a professional to do it.

Bridge collapses: If it has fallen but is NOT broken, it can be fixed at home. Loosen all of the strings until they are fairly lax. Put the bridge back in place (it should be about 1.5 inches away from the fingerboard on a violin; proportional on all other instruments) and hold it. The bridge is held in place by tension alone; never glue. Tighten both outside strings until they are holding the bridge in place. Then, tighten the inner strings and retune the instrument. Make sure that the bridge is upright and not tipped. If you happen to notice that the bridge is tipping, adjust it before it falls. This can be done with the strings still tight, but they will need to be re-tuned afterwards.

Bridge breaks: Go see a repairman and have him fit a new bridge to your instrument. Bridges come in different heights and degree of curve, so only a professional should do this type of repair.

Sound post falls: If you hear a piece of wood rolling around and rattling inside your instrument as you pick it up, look inside it. If there is a small, cylindrical piece of wood rolling around, it is your soundpost. Do not play it; take it immediately for repairs.

When loosening the bow, the metal piece suddenly comes out and the hair comes off the bottom of the bow: This is supposed to happen if you loosen it too much. Pick the frog back up and put it back on the stick (you will see an open place in the stick where it fits in). Then, place the metal screw back in the end of the bow and tighten it. Remember not to loosen it quite so much next time. Also, make sure when you put it back together, the hair is not twisted. If it is, take it apart and untwist it.

A loud, strange buzzing sound occurs while playing: First, make sure that nothing is interferring with the vibrations, such as a towel over the instrument or anything else that could be touching the strings. If that's not the case, look for places where the instrument has come unglued. This will usually occur along the sides, where the seams are. Take it to a repairman immediately and have it re-glued.

The instrument sounds dull and lifeless: If there is a sudden change in the sound, check for ungluing or cracks. If the instrument is cracked, take it to a repairman and have him fix it immediately. To prevent cracking, keep a humidifier in your case and don't expose it to extreme temperature changes.

Bow stick breaks: Buy a new bow. There is no way to fix this.

Instrument becomes sticky with dust and rosin: Get some instrument cleaning solution (only a product specifically marketed as string instrument cleaner; other things can ruin the finish) and use a soft cloth to clean it. Then, polish it.

Strings are gummy with rosin: Pour isopropyl alcohol onto a soft cloth and wipe the strings on all sides. If this does not remove most or all of the residue, change the strings.

Bow is so full of rosin that it squeaks on the strings: Either have the bow rehaired, or clean it at home. Use liquid dish detergent on a tooth brush through the bow hairs. Remove the hair from the stick by completely removing the screw at the end of the bow. Use water and isopropyl alcohol to rinse, and let the bow dry before you put it back together.

Bow seems to glide over strings and squeaks a lot (especially when new): Needs a LOT more rosin. Sit down and rosin for ten minutes or so.

If you ever notice that something "seems" wrong with your instrument, check it carefully for problems and take it to a repairman if you are uncertain. It is always better to be safe than sorry!

How to care for a new string instrument

Many people bring home a brand new string instrument and then ask, now what? Caring for one can be daunting, but it doesn't have to be. There are a few specific things you must know.

First, your instrument should come with a case and a bow. Your bow is made from horsehair, and will come with the hair very loose. The small metal part at the end of the bow will turn to tighten the hair, as it should be while playing. When putting the instrument away, you should store the bow with the hair loose, just as it arrived.

Before using the bow for the first time, it should be rosined. Rosin is the shiny orange, yellow, or black cube in instrument case. It needs to be rubbed very hard until the shininess goes away and a white dust starts appearing on the surface. This white dust is what helps the bow grip the strings. Violin, viola and cello bows can be rosined using a back and forth motion across the surface of the rosin. Bass rosin, however, is different. It is stickier and softer than the other forms of rosin, and bows should be pulled down across the surface, lifted, and pulled down again. They should NEVER be pulled back and forth.

The instrument should always be put away when it's not being played, and it should not have anything under it or on top of it that could create problems with it fitting into the case. Shoulder rests should not be left on, or set over the strings. Violins and violas, in their cases, should always be stored either on their sides, or on their backs (string side up). Cellos and basses should be stored upright (preferred) or on their sides. They should never lie on their backs and NEVER string side down.

New instruments will need to be tuned before they are played. If you know how to tune them, do it yourself. If you don't, take it to a local music shop so they can show you how to do so properly. It's important not only to know what note each string is, but what octave it's in. Basses have E, A, D, and G strings (from lowest to highest). The low E string is two octaves and a sixth below middle C, and the instrument is tuned in fourths. Cellos have C, G, D, and A strings, and the low C string is tuned two octaves below middle C, and it is tuned in fifths. Violas have C, G, D, and A strings, and the low C string is one octave below middle C, and it is tuned in fifths. Violins have G, D, A and E strings, and the G string is a fifth below middle C. It is also tuned in fifths.

New instruments will need to be tuned frequently, because new strings need time to stretch out and get used to the instrument. Have a teacher tune it weekly if you have one; otherwise take it to a music shop periodically until you learn how to tune.

Instruments will sometimes accumulate dust. You should use a very soft cloth (an old T-shirt works well) to clean the instrument. Wipe the body of the instrument gently, including under the fingerboard (the black part under the strings). Wipe the strings as well, making sure you get all the way around.

If the strings become very dirty, you can clean them with rubbing alcohol. Simply pour a little bit onto a soft cloth and gently rub the strings. NEVER allow alcohol to get onto the body of the instrument; it will ruin the finish. For this reason, only adults or advanced students should do this. If you are at all uncertain about cleaning the strings, talk to a string teacher.

Keep your instrument out of direct sunlight or any extreme temperatures. Heat can cause the glue at the seams to melt; cold can cause the wood to crack. Either could break the strings. If you notice any problems, take your instrument to a qualified repairman immediately.

Be smart about caring for your instrument. Don't drop it or allow a child to play with it, keep it clean and put away when you're not playing it. Using some common sense and following these guidelines will keep your instrument in good condition for years.

Purchasing a quality string instrument

Purchasing a quality string instrument is important if you want to continue playing for awhile and sound good doing it. There are many different instruments you can purchase that are nice, depending on the level at which you are working.

For beginning instruments, you can get them in many places. It's best NOT to buy them out of catalogues or online, although that is an option. Visit your local music shop and string instrument dealers to get an idea of the prices. Don't go to a place that primarily rents instruments, or you may be talked into renting, buying an instrument that has been rented many times, or an instrument that is not worth the money you're spending.

Look for an instrument that appears to be well-made. There should be no cracks in it, no gaps at the seams, and it should come set up (with the bridge and the strings on). The bow will be made of fiberglass, but should resemble a well-made, expensive bow. Some beginner bows are made very heavily, with thick plastic by the frog (the end you hold the bow). These are not well-balanced, are difficult to hold, and can promote bad bow holds. They do, however, last for years (which is why rental companies use them). Purchase, instead, a light weight bow that may not last as long, but which more closely replicates a good bow. Ask a local dealer to help out.

When you are looking for a higher quality instrument, there are many other factors to consider. First, never buy an instrument without trying it out. You should see a professional dealer and request to take the instruments home for a few days or a week. If the dealer will not agree, don't purchase an instrument from them. You must be able to play the instruments in your usual settings to get a real feel for them.

Look for instruments that have a two-piece back, striping in the wood (it looks like your instrument basically has stripes running all across the back of it), and which feels well-made to you. Play the instrument and listen to its sound. It should have a deep, rich sound.

Some instruments are fairly nice, but they have a whiny or thin sound. These should be rejected. If you are unsure if it is your playing ability or the instrument, ask the dealer to play it for you. The dealer should also be willing to change the strings if they are what's hampering the sound. If you don't like the feel of the instrument (perhaps the chin rest is too high), ask the dealer to fix it.

The bow is also important. It should be made of either brazil wood or pernambuco, and should be well-balanced. Don't accept a bow made of anything else. Don't buy a bow that has strangely-colored hair, either. Your bow should have plain black or white horse hair. Try the bow out, too, and make sure that it feels well-balanced in your hand. If it doesn't feel right, don't buy it.

If you have a teacher, take the instruments to your teacher and ask him or her to play them. Listen for the depth and richness of the sound. If you play a viola, cello, or bass, check for any "wolf tones." These are usually found on the G string and up in the third position. If you are unsure which notes may be wolf tones, ask about them before buying an instrument.

A wolf tone is a note that doesn't sound properly. It sounds airy and unclear and may even be a little bit shrieky. This happens because the acoustics of the instrument aren't quite right. Always have someone check for these before you buy an instrument. If you really like an instrument except for the wolf tones, ask the dealer if he can move the bass bar (found inside the instrument) to try to correct this problem.

Overall, make sure you buy something that is well-balanced, made of quality wood, does not contain any blemishes, DOES have striping, and sounds nice. Only purchase instruments from reputable dealers, and always try them out before you buy them. Expect to pay $1000 - $1500 for a decent violin or viola. Expect to pay $1500 - $5000 for a cello or bass. Negotiating is okay.

Teach yourself acoustic guitar

Okay, so you want to rock out like Chris Carrabba, or maybe Aaron Lewis. You have the cool clothes, the comfy sneakers, and the slickest, sweetest acoustic guitar anybody’s ever owned.

The only problem is, you really don’t know how to play the thing, so at the moment it’s just a cool fashion accessory. You can change that, though. It just takes patience, practice, and a little bit of investment in materials. Hey! The good news is that you don’t have to pay for lessons!

THE VERY BASIC STUFF (i.e. “what you need to know before you can begin playing”)

-How to string it. It’s really simple. If you have bridge pins (the white, beige, or black pieces of plastic that stick into the bridge), make sure that you buy acoustic guitar strings with ball ends. They work very well with the bridge pins, unlike the flat strings without any ends (or the ones with loops).

If you have a bridge with holes drilled through it, you can still use ball-end strings, or plain ones, or the ones with loops.

To figure out exactly how to string it, do an Internet search for “stringing guitars,” or take your guitar to a music store. The people in the guitar section are usually more than happy to help you out, often for a small fee.

-How to tune it. This can be done with a tuning fork, a pitch pipe, another guitar, a piano, or an automatic tuner. Or, if you’re a musical genius, you can tune it by ear. (But if that were the case, you probably wouldn’t be here right now, would you?)

Most of the instruments you buy for tuning your guitar come with instructions. The pitch pipe is fairly straightforward: just blow on the appropriately marked hole (matching the key there to the key of the string you’re trying to tune on the guitar), and adjust the guitar string until it’s in harmony with the pitch pipe. Automatic tuners come with instructions, though they’re fairly easy to understand. All you really do is turn it on, pluck the string you want to tune, and adjust according to the readout on the display.

These are the easiest ways for most people to tune guitars, so try to stick with them. They’re also pretty cheap. After all, is there any sense in buying an upright piano to put in your house if you’re only using it to tune the guitar?

WHAT YOU NEED TO LEARN (i.e. “cool stuff you can play that will make you look like an acoustic genius and make everyone at school adore you”)

-Chords. These are simple. They’re just combinations of strings and frets held down with your fret fingers (on your left hand if you’re a righty), that sound good when you strum, pick, or bang away.

The easiest way to learn these is to find a poster with all the chords printed on it. These can be found at discount department stores, music stores, and online for as little as four and a half bucks. Hang it on a wall close to where you’ll play and practice the most often, at eye level for easy reference.

Now all you have to do is pick a few chords and practice playing them. Be sure to press down HARD with your fret fingers: you’ll get a few calluses, but the sound will be crystal clear. Also: be sure to keep your fret hand as parallel with the fretboard as possible. If you have your hand curled tightly around the fretboard and the guitar’s neck, you’ll have a hard time playing some of the more “awkward” chords. These are usually those that require four fingers, or span three frets.

Practice switching from one chord to another, and then to something entirely different. Switch in different orders so that you won’t get stuck in a rut of playing the same thing repeatedly. Ideally, whatever chords you play together will sound like they belong together: they’ll blend with each other smoothly, and your ears won’t cringe at the sound.

You also need to learn scales. All you do when you play scales is hit all the notes in a certain key. Because these notes are spread all over the guitar, every string is involved.

These are fun to do, but some people take a little while getting the hang of them. That’s okay: keep practicing.

Again, get a poster. They’re usually found right next to the posters of chords, for the same price.

If you don’t have any wall space, you can go to a music store or the Internet and find books for beginning guitar players. Some are custom-tailored for those who are into acoustic: read the titles and, if you can, page through them before you buy to see what exactly they’re teaching you. Most of these books include chord patterns and scales.

NOW THAT YOU KNOW WHAT TO DO (i.e. “you got the ball, now run with it”)

-PRACTICE. Set aside a specific time every day, whether it’s ten minutes or two hours, to practice. Do it even when you don’t really feel like playing: sometimes you find yourself in the mood only AFTER you’ve dragged out the guitar case and flipped open the lid.

-LEARN SOME SONGS. Playing the same scales and chords repeatedly for months on end is going to get boring. Once you have a few chords (and perhaps a scale or two) down, you can go online and search for chords to your favorite songs. Try to pick simple ones: if you immediately dive into, say, Stevie Ray Vaughan, you’re going to become very, very frustrated at your inability to do in a few weeks what that man took years to perfect.

If you look at online guitar tablature archives, you’ll find tabs – a pretty popular way to tell people how to play songs. They require a little knowledge, but many sites have a “how to read this” explanation that you can download and print for future reference.

NOTE: Some people are very “visual” learners, in that they have to see other people do it before they can get it. If that’s you, then don’t worry – you can find video clips online of people playing the songs you’re trying to learn.

And if you can’t find it that way, go to the concert. Support your favorite artists AND learn something new.

Above all, ENJOY! Not everybody has the time, patience or talent to master acoustic guitar. If you’re one of the lucky people who can do it, then go for it.

What tools are needed to repair a piano?

Buying a piano is a big investment; however investing more in the beginning by purchasing a higher quality piano will save you time and money on maintenance in the long run. In order to protect your investment regular maintenance is advisable, and most experts recommend full servicing of your piano two to four times per year. This servicing is essential to the health and precision of your piano. In order to do these repairs you will need the right tools.

There are many tools needed for the various repairs and tuning duties associated with piano care and it is advisable to purchase a piano tool kit as opposed to buying each piece individually. Not only will the kit save you money, but also often come with a carrying case that will keep your tools organized and ready for quick retrieval and use.

TOOLS TO LOOK FOR IN A KIT

The following tools should be included in your piano repair kit: 8” Screw Holder, Jack Spring Hole Reamer, Kimball Screwdriver, Grand Drop Screw Regulator, Grand Hammer Butt Spacer, Punching Lifter, Philips Screwdriver – large, Philips Screwdriver – small, Screwdriver Blade, Offset Key Spacer, Regulating Screwdriver, Damper Regulator, Right Angle Damper Regulator, Grand Screwdriver, Bent Backcheck Regulator, Spoon Bender, Pointed Awl, Square Capstan Regulator, Pointed Capstan Regulator, Screwdriver Blade for Flange Screws, Grand Spring Adjuster, Carrying Case, and a Tool Handle.

As you can see this is quite a list. Below you’ll find descriptions of some of the tools and what they are used for.

TOOL DESCRIPTION

The Capstan Tool is used for correcting lost motion and it has the ability to fit two sizes of nuts.

The Pointed Awl has a three-sided tip and is used for creating guide holes for various screws.

The Grand Screwdriver is used for adjusting the Kimball Damper Screws, and Brass Upright Butt Plate Screws.

The Spoon Bender, as the name suggests, is used to bend spoons and adjust action inside the piano.

PART KIT

The tools listed above are intended for fitting the special sized screws and nuts inside your piano. In addition to these tools you will also want to put together a kit of replacement parts, and additional tools. In this kit you will want to have:

1. Extra pins

2. Extra strings

3. Extra screws of various sizes

4. Gauge for: sizing broken bass wires, and for sizing tuning pins while they are still in the piano.

5. Various sized clamps

6. Drill

7. Various types of pliers

8. Replacement hammers

9. Pin cutters

EXTERNAL CARE

In order to maintain your piano’s “piano finish” simple follow a few steps and precautions. First keep your piano out of direct sunlight as this will fade the color of the wood, cause warping, and damage the finish. Secondly, keep your piano dry and away from moisture. This too will damage the wood and the finish of your piano. To clean your piano, use a high quality polish once a quarter or semi-annually, depending on need. It is not recommended that you polish your piano frequently. This will only result in a build up of polish and will inevitably dim the luster of the finish. Dry dust and spot clean as needed.

The ability to keep your piano performing at its best and keeping it in good repair will protect your investment in the instrument. In order to facilitate the retrieval of the right tool and part at the crucial time, it is advisable to keep your repair kit, part kit, and piano cleaning supplies all together in a designated drawer or cupboard. This will not only keep you organized, but it will also help reduce stress and frustration at the time when you need to make a repair, and will encourage you to keep your piano tuned and well maintained.

How to play the bagpipes

For some, bagpipes might bring to mind images of Scottish soldiers in days gone by, taking to the field of battle in an attempt to keep their lands free. For other, the bagpipes might bring to mind events such as the passing of a loved one or a longing to be back home. No matter what images the haunting tone of the bagpipes brings to mind, the universal appeal of this interesting instrument can't be denied.

The bagpipe is actually a very ancient form of instrument, with many different forms around the world. The basic principle remains the same, despite the different forms that it takes... an inflatable bag is filled with air from a mouth pipe, and air is let out of the bag to make tones from different pipes attached to it.

To play the classic bagpipe, you'll need to know the various parts of it. The bag (which was originally made of animal skins, but is more likely to be made of synthetic materials in modern pipes) can come in a variety of shapes and sizes, depending on whether the pipe is designed to be played indoors or outdoors. (Indoor bagpipes are usually known as "parlor pipes" or "miniature bagpipes", and are smaller than the bagpipes designed to be played outdoors.)

From the bag, a variety of pipes emerge... one is the mouth pipe, which allows you to blow into the bag to inflate it, and several are "drone" pipes... they produce a continuous pitch while the bag is pressed to release air. In addition to the drone pipes and the mouth pipe, one or more pipes are attached to the bag with finger stops (which is the term for the holes on a pipe) which are used to create melodies of varying pitches. The drone pipes are typically attached to the larger end of the bag, and stick upward over the shoulder; the melody pipes are on the other end (which is usually much more slender), and face downward so that they can be played.

To play the bagpipes, arrange them so that the drone pipes rest on your left shoulder and the bag is tucked under your left arm and elbow. Place the mouth pipe in your mouth and blow... this will fill the bag with air. Now take the melody pipe (the one with the finger stops) and use both hands to hold it, placing your fingers on or near the finger stops. Should the particular pipe that you have possess more than one melody pipe, use one hand for each or alternate the pipe that you play.

Squeeze inward with your left arm to begin playing the pipes... the drone pipes will begin to make some noise, and the melody pipe will begin sounding whatever note you have fingered on the finger stops. Alternate the pressure on the bag to change the pitch of the drone pipes, and change your fingering of the melody pipe to change the note that you're playing. When the bad begins to grow limp, blow into the mouth pipe to refill it. Since the bag is used to supply air to the pipes instead of blowing directly into them, you don't have to quit playing to breathe... keep in mind, though, that the bag will deflate quickly and you'll need to keep it filled with air in order to maintain consistent notes.

Problems with clarinets

All instruments can break or have problems at any time, even if they are well maintained. However, if you know what to look for and how to deal with it, your instrument should remain in good playing condition.

Some problems can be fixed at home, while others cannot. Knowing which you can fix is the first step to handling the problems. Never attempt to fix problems best handled by a qualified repairman. Never take your instrument apart, remove keys or screws, or damage the wood in any way.

Sometimes, while playing, a note may sound "spitty" or may not play correctly (due to water in the opening). Find the key that's having the problem, open it, and blow into it to remove the spit. Then, swab your clarinet out. If this continually happens in the same key, take your clarinet to a repairman to have the pad replaced.

Your E/B may not speak, especially the B. To see if this is a serious problem, play a D (over the break) very softly. Then, push down the B key and see if the note sounds. If it doesn't, take the clarinet to a repairman and have him change the pad. If the B doesn't speak at a very soft dynamic, then the pad isn't sealing correctly. If you need a very quick fix, get a small piece of masking tape and fold it over in a circle. Place this carefully on the pad. Never leave this for longer than necessary; the pad should be fixed properly.

If you notice that screws are coming out of your clarinet (they are very tiny, so check for them carefully), take a screwdriver (the kind used to fix glasses) and screw them back in. Be careful not to screw them in too tightly or you can hurt the mechanics of the clarinet.

If none of the notes in your left hand will speak, check the bridge keys on the side of the instrument. They may have overlapped incorrectly or they may have gotten bent. If they are overlapped incorrectly, take the instrument apart and put it back together carefully. If the keys are bent, gently try to bend them back. If you can't, or are afraid you'll hurt it, take it to a repairman to have the keys unbent. Always put your clarinet together carefully to avoid this problem.

If any part of your clarinet gets stuck together, find something cool and dry (cool metal works well) to rest your clarinet against for a few minutes. Then, grip it carefully on either side of the joint and twist. Rock it side to side slightly to try to break the seal, and continue to try to twist it off. If you can't, take it to a repairman. This is a sign that your clarinet has too much wood in the joint, and it should be cut down. Make an appointment to have the wood adjusted as soon as possible or your clarinet will continue to stick together (which is not good). Don't push your clarinet together so hard, use plenty of cork grease, and take it apart as soon as you're done playing in the meantime.

Different notes are squeaking or not speaking properly -- it may be your reed. Try using a different one to see if that helps. If it doesn't, your keys may be out of alignment. Take the instrument to a repairman for cleaning and overhauling.

Your clarinet cracks (usually in the top joint, near the barrel). Take it to a repairman immediately to be pinned. Don't expose it to cold air or any dramatic temperature changes. If it's cold outside, put it in its case and wrap that in a blanket or gig bag. Get information on keeping your clarinet oiled and out of extreme temperatures to prevent further cracking.

Your mouthpiece gets dropped. It may be fine, it may chip, or it may crack in half. If it breaks or chips, buy a new one.

There are many things that can go wrong with your clarinet. However, if you take good care of it, these things don't need to happen often if at all. Know a good repairman and keep in touch with him. Take your clarinet in for overhauling once a year, and follow your repairman's instructions on the care of your instrument.